User manual HARTBLEI ZORKI4

[. . . ] Installation is the reverse of this proceedure. Again, note that this rendering is of a Fed 3. The film loading procedures are identical, except that the Zorki 4 takeup spool is removeable. To load film place the 35mm cartridge onto the left spindle, with the film leader placed into the takeup spool on the right. Note that the takeup spool pulls the film UNDER the spool, so feed the leader so that it passes OVER the sprockets and then UNDER the takeup spool. [. . . ] You will notice that the knob moves easily from 1/30th counterclockwise until it reaches the 1/15th mark. At that point resistance will be felt, and a noise like the winding of a clock will be heard. The speed selector cannot be moved counterclockwise farther than the 1 second mark. To go from on second to 1/30th you must turn the knob clockwise all the way around past B. USING THE VIEWFINDER/RANGEFINDER Note the lever under the rewind knob at the far right (viewed from the back) of Zorki 4. This is a diopter correction, allowing you to adjust the viewer for your own eyesight. In most cases, this will eliminated the need for glasses while using your Zorki 4 - a good thing as the hard plastic eyepiece may scratch your eyeglasses. To adjust the diopter push the lever left or right until the viewfinder is at its maximum clarity. Make certain not to have your hand in front of the viewfinder as you will see only through the rangefinder optic. I cannot find a single setting that works for all focusing distances, but it is quick and easy to adjust at any time. Rotate the focus ring left or right until the split image merges into a single image. If this cannot be accomplished, you are too close to the object for that particular lens. What you see in the viewfinder is almost certainly not what the film "sees. " At normal distances, and with the "normal" 50mm lens, there is little difference. Change to a wide angle or telephoto lens, or try and move in close and other factors come into play. The Zorki 4 viewfinder has a field of view roughly comparable (at least to my eyes) of a 50mm lens. This will depend to a certain extent on the amount of your diopter correction. If you use a wider lens, say a 35mm, you will capture somewhat more than you can see through the Zorki 4 viewfinder. Conversely, longer focal length lenses take in smaller and smaller areas, until at 135mm the lens may see only the area encompased by the rangefinder dot. The solution here is to use one of the many available auxiliary viewfinders. These come in both dedicated (a single viewfinder to match a single focal length), multiple brightlines, and adjustable varieties. These are inserted into the accessory shoe and will provide the proper field of view for the lens desired. When moving in for a closeup you run into the problem that the lens is in the middle of the camera, while the viewfinder is well off to the side. [. . . ] When ready to release, press the timer release button directly above the self timer lever. CHANGING LENSES Your Zorki 4 uses Leica Thread Mount (LTM) screw threads, 39mm X 1mm. This allows you to use not only the lenses made in Russia for the Fed, Zorki, Mir, etc. , but also other LTM lenses made by Nikon, Contax, Steinheil, and currently by Voigtlander, as well as Leica. CAUTION: KMZ (Zenit, or sometimes Zenith), made some LTM mount lenses for their early SLR cameras and these have a different focal plane depth. They may mount, but will not operate properly and could damage your camera. [. . . ]